The Breeder's Bulletin

Canine Shoulders

Thu, 06 Feb 2025 06:43:53 GMT

Is your dog's stride long and smooth, or choppy? The answer may be in its shoulder.

Why do some dogs have a long smooth stride, and others have a choppy gait, with little front reach? If you examine the shoulder, you usually find the answer. The front assembly of the canine is not attached in the same way as the human. Humans have the collar bone or clavicle which runs between the shoulder and the breastbone. The clavicle attaches to the shoulder at the acromio-clavicular joint, and attaches to the breastbone, or sternum, at the sterno-clavicular joint. This rather flimsy arrangement leaves the major part of the attachment of the upper extremity assembly to muscles, but does supply some mechanical (bony) rigidity to the apparatus.

In canines, there is no collar bone. The front assembly literally floats on its muscular and ligamentous attachments. This arrangement suits the need for maximum cushioning and flexibility of the front end of a predator which must catch its fast moving prey. The human needs more stability because his main implement is his hand, and he does not need the impact cushioning because he does not run on all fours.

The function of angulation - the bones folded at angles to one another - is twofold. The most obvious function is that of enabling alteration of the position of the component bones so that the dog can move, and providing levers upon which the muscles can exert mechanical force.

The second function is that of shock absorption. The front end bears about 65-75% of the dog’s weight. The angles between the bones of the front limb and shoulder act as a series of leaf springs to absorb the shock of gaiting. Without these shock absorbers, the front would quickly break down. Thus the shoulder in the canine infant starts out rather short and upright, for maximum strength in weight bearing, and only later, as the animal uses its running gear for several months or even a year or more, do the muscles mature and define the adult shoulder placement. The shoulder muscles and the angles between the bones develop by responding to the need for shock absorption during the stresses of gait.

The first diagram shows the principal muscles which move the front leg forward. There are many other muscles besides the ones shown, but together they all perform the major functions shown.

The most important joint is the sacpulo-humeral joint. It controls the amount of extension of the shoulder by means of a notch on the top of the humerus. This joint can never open to 180 degrees as a result of this limiting notch, which stops it about 15 degrees short of 180. Thus the maximum angle of the upper arm very much depends on the angle at which the shoulder blade is set on the body.

The shoulder blade can rotate up to 15 degrees from the static position, which in the well angulated shoulder is about 30 degrees (to the vertical). This angles the shoulder, when you add the 15 degrees of additional rotation at maximum extension, to 45 degrees - the angle of maximum stride length.

Look at the lack of balance in the musculature of the dog with an upright shoulder blade. The areas of attachment of the muscles are limited because the angles are too steep. The angles at which the muscles act limits their mechanical advantage as well.

Dog A. will be able to move easily on a loose lead with his head held at a 90 degree angle to the axis of the shoulderblade. He will have a long stride, and a fluid gait which appears effortless. He always looks good - on or off the leash.

Dog B. has trouble extending his front legs. Because of the steep shoulder, he needs to lower his head to gain effective use of the muscles which move the leg forward. He will tend to “hang” on the leash to assist himself in getting the front end airborne. Left to his own devices, he will tend to move with considerable vertical bounce, and with a lower stationed head. Because of the shortened front stride, the rear will tend to kick up behind, rather than reach under the dog. This dog, if trained to tolerate being “strung up” on the leash, may look very flashy in the ring, as his handler helps him get his front off the ground, the rear is then free to propel him forward.

Choosing Your Puppy

Mon, 27 Jan 2025 09:08:00 GMT

Tips and tricks for choosing your new puppy.

When choosing a puppy, you must first decide on your budget. Dogs are not inexpensive–whether you purchase one from the local shelter or from a pet store or breeder. However, I am confident you will find that your first expense is minimal, compared to life with your new friend.

The next thing you will want to consider is what breed will fit best in your life. Many breeds take extra care in grooming. Many breeds are lap dogs. Some breeds grow into huge dogs and eat a lot. Some are bred for different jobs in life and need an owner willing to do those jobs with them. Many breeds like to play while others like to sit. Others are very intelligent, while their counterparts are dumber than posts and only live to be a companion. Some breeds are more child-friendly than others. Take time to thoroughly research and make a careful decision about which breed will fit best in your lifestyle and home.

The AKC website offers a thorough breed directory and can be accessed for research at here . There is also a “Find Your Match” questionnaire, which can be found here .

After you have found your preferred breed, you can begin your search for the perfect pet, ready with the knowledge to be an informed buyer. You may find your new friend at a pet store, through the internet on “puppy find” pages or by googling breeders of the breed you have chosen. You can take a look here on our website at MPBA’s directory for members who raise your breed, if you wish.

References are the best way to find a good breeder. If you see your breed of choice in a store, out walking with his owner, or you have a friend with the same breed, don’t be afraid to ask where they got their puppy. Find out if they were happy with the store or breeder where they purchased him. Then ask for that business or breeder’s contact information or website to see if they have puppies available.

Remember, this is a new family member. Do your homework. It will be time well spent.

Originally written by Karen Marrs. Reviewed and updated by the MPBA Team January 27, 2025.

The Modern-Day Fairy Tale: The Myth of Reach & Drive

Mon, 27 Jan 2025 08:47:27 GMT

In the past, when breed type was more important than exaggeration, flash and showmanship, there was more understanding and acceptance of the varying trotting styles than there is today.

Good Dog Build

Good Dog Trot

A correctly built and angulated, normal-legged dog has its legs correctly under its body for support, broad quarters with strong musculature, and a long, low side gait that is effortless and efficient.

Fortunate indeed are those in our sport who were taught by mentors who had a true foundation in animal husbandry and a real knowledge of working ability in their chosen breeds. Fifty years ago the separation between a dog that could easily perform its intended function and one that could do a lot of winning in the show ring was either nonexistent or quite slight. Dogs were often used for their created purpose during the week (hunting, herding, guarding, etc.), then bathed, brushed, and taken to a dog show on the weekend. Breeding programs in many breeds were still based as much on function as they were on beauty. Dogs that could not perform the function for which their breed was originally created were not included in breeding programs. Working and winning went hand in hand.

Times have changed. Look around at dog shows today and you will see a myriad of dogs with structure so opposed to the requirements of their breed standard and trotting movement so artificially created by manipulative breeding that one must wonder how these oddly made dogs could ever actually go out and do a day’s work. In the quest to win, fanciers have in many cases changed the basic proportion and structure of their dogs away from the useful norm toward strange exaggerations with unbalanced angles and bone lengths that produce incorrect side gaits. The long reach and high lift and kick may be eye-catching, but it is incorrect and inefficient.

Yet so many people are captivated and fooled by this movement. “Look at that dog cover ground,” is a commonly heard phrase outside a show ring. But is that dog really covering ground, or is it an illusion? Further, is that dog that people think is covering ground even required by its breed standard to do so?

Form Follows Function

The original wild dogs (wolves) had to survive on their own. They had to be a jack-of-all-trades, able to track, hunt and efficiently kill their prey. They excelled in sustained locomotion, having the ability to trot for very long distances with tremendous endurance. There was never anything exaggerated about their trotting style. They covered the maximum amount of ground with the minimum amount of effort, keeping their heads somewhat forward for balance and their feet close to the ground through all phases of the trot. This easy, free, energy-conserving gait allowed them to travel for miles in their quest to survive. Fancy? No. Efficient? Yes.

When man domesticated wild dogs, he created breeds for a particular function, and the trotting styles of various breeds differed based upon the structure that was created by selection for a particular use. Dogs selected for bursts of speed, swimming, digging, etc., varied in the way they trotted based upon the proportion and structure that best allowed them to do their specialized work. Unfortunately (but necessarily) at dog shows, every breed is evaluated at the trot, but not all breeds were created to be capable of trotting in the same manner. In an era when breed type was more important than exaggeration, flash, and showmanship, there was more understanding and acceptance of the varying trotting styles than there is today.

Movement Is Not Universal

Inefficient Dog Build

Inefficient Dog Trot

A dog with very open angles at both the shoulder and the hip stands with its legs far out on either end of its body, which does not lend correct support to the body. This dog will trot with a lot of lift and kick. While it may look like it is taking long strides, the feet are actually on the ground for only a short period during each step, which causes the dog to have to work much harder to move.

Today there seems to be a quest for a universal style of trotting in many breeds, and breeders have changed some of the critical and fundamental characteristics of their dogs in an effort to create a trotting style that draws attention by its speed, animation and exaggeration, regardless of the fact that the animals being produced most likely would never be capable of performing their original function if asked to do so. While the majority of dogs produced in show breeding programs today are never required to perform outside the show ring, we as breeders should be charged with maintaining our breeds as they were originally intended by the people who created them and wrote their breed standards. It is not our job to change or “improve” our breeds. Yes, of course, there is always something about each individual dog that we would like to change or improve, but that is far different than setting out to change an entire breed into something that is basically a caricature.

There is much discussion today about “tremendous reach and drive” (TRAD). So many seem to think that it is correct, and they want to produce it even in breeds whose standards distinctly describe a structure that won’t produce long stride at the trot. So in order to lengthen stride on a dog, its proportions are changed. Square breeds are all of a sudden longer than tall. Slightly longer than tall breeds are longer still, and the length of their legs is shortened. Breeds that are supposed to be “well angulated” at the shoulder and the hip with a pelvic slope of 30 degrees off the horizontal (which gives them long, low-to-the-ground stride) are being bred with very open angles at both ends and pelvises that slope only 10 degrees. This sets the legs of the dog far out on each end and creates a side gait that is all high lift in the front and big kick up behind, and it’s all in the air. It is this lift and kick that fools so many people.

How Dogs Move

Dogs that are vertical at both the shoulder and the hip do not stand with their legs correctly under their body for support. They do not have the proper width of their quarters (which produces strong musculature) that is created by correct angulation. Looking at the underline of a dog in a breed that should have good, balanced angulation and width of quarters is so educational. Well-angulated dogs will be short in underline from the elbow to the knee, while vertical ones will be much longer. The two dogs might measure exactly the same from breastbone to point of buttocks and withers to ground, yet their structure will be completely different, and their method of trotting will differ also. The properly angulated dog will swing freely from the shoulder blade and the hip with long, low, easy strides and no wasted effort, while the vertical dog will stiffly “pop” from the elbow and the hip and lift the legs far too high off the ground on both ends, creating a gait that causes the dog a great deal of increased effort and gives it little to no endurance. The higher the legs go up in the air, the farther they have to come back down to contact the ground. And feet only work when they are on the ground; they have no use when they are up in the air.

Long steps means long steps on the ground. Forward propulsion comes from the forceful opening of the hip, stifle and hock joints when the foot is on the ground. The front assembly of the dog carries the majority of its weight, and the front legs go out in front of the dog in motion to keep it from falling on its nose. Front legs do not reach out and “pull the ground under the dog,” as I so often hear said. When the dog is trotting, these muscles cannot pull; they only push. And the front leg is used for forward propulsion only once the leg is perpendicular under the body. Feet that stay on the ground for a long period of each stride create a far more efficient, useful and enduring gait than a dog whose front and rear legs hit the ground and “pop” right back up in the air. It might look fancy, but it is far from useful and demands great effort. Watching a dog that moves correctly should give you the impression of effortless balance and carriage, not struggle and hard work. But far too often today we see the hard-working dog rewarded over the correct one and then hear that the easy-moving dog wasn’t “asking for the win.”

Evaluate Natural Movement

An additional problem seen all too often today in combination with incorrect structure is the dreadful habit of dogs being shown on a very short, tight lead, with the head forced back over its shoulders and causing even more incorrect lift of the front legs. This method of handling can throw off even a well-made dog, so think of what it does to a dog lacking correct structure. Incorrectly made dogs most often have very poor foot timing anyway (a one, two, three, four beat rather than a two-beat trot), and having their heads held up and back only adds to their inefficiency. Dogs should always be allowed to put their head where they would carry it naturally in order for the judges to evaluate true gait, and judges should insist on dogs in their ring being gaited that way. If dogs fall apart when let down to navigate on their own, then they should not win.

It is my belief that these incorrect dogs do so much winning because so many judges do not first evaluate breed type. Instead, they fall into the pattern of rewarding the dog that can go around the ring the fastest and fanciest, regardless of the fact that it may totally lack many of the critical components of breed type required in its standard. Many years ago, Anne Rogers Clark wrote words that every judge should live by in the ring. She instructed judges to “first choose the individuals in your ring with the best breed type, and then reward the soundest of those type individuals.” If we could all strive to judge with that directive in mind, our breeds would be far better served in the long run.

Originally written by Kathy Lorentzen for the January 2015 issue of Dogs in Review magazine. Reviewed by the MPBA Team January 1, 2025.

Raising & Training Puppies

Mon, 27 Jan 2025 07:12:55 GMT

A detailed guide to training your puppy.

The belief that pups should not be trained until they are at least six months to one year of age is not true. All dogs can benefit from obedience training as early as seven weeks and also when the puppy enters its new home. By six months of age, almost all behavior problems are already in place. This means that early training can be used to avoid problems before they become more difficult and frustrating. Bad habits are hard to correct, therefore, owners should never allow nipping, chewing, digging, barking, mounting, etc., which are all normal behaviors but, if left uncorrected, can lead to behavior problems. Dogs learn each day what behavior will or will not be allowed. Remember that bad habits are hard to change.

SOME GENERAL RULES

Remember that preventing problems is easier than solving them.
Do not leave children alone with a new pup. Inevitably, the pup will view small children as a littermate. They will nip, jump and begin to seek dominance and a pecking order.
Do not allow the pup to join in running games with children. The pup will begin to think of children as “prey” and might begin to nip.
Never allow aggressive play and avoid tug-of-war with a puppy. This can lead to aggressive behavior and biting. Instead, throw a ball for the pup to chase. Tug-of-war, before four months of age, also stresses the elbow joints and is not recommended.
Remind children to leave a sleeping puppy alone. Enforce the idea that pups need their rest. Do not surprise pups or adult dogs. A serious incident could occur.
Encourage everyone in the home, including the children, to think of the puppy as a sensitive, living thing, with needs and desires and not a toy.

TRAINING PUPS, CHILDREN AND THE FAMILY

Parents have an obligation and should not assume that the mix of children, dogs, and pups does not need supervision. Children lack adult judgment, therefore all child/dog interactions should be monitored, and yes, there will be times when you will have to protect the pup from children and vice-versa.

OVER INDULGENCE

The term “good owner” is used to mean that rules are always enforced and that the good behavior is always rewarded. Dogs look for leadership from their owner. Indulging in bad behavior such as nipping, begging, stealing from the table, barking, etc., are all bad habits. Do not make excuses for these behaviors and do not allow a pup to develop unpleasant behaviors. A trained pup will become a trained dog and those who come in contact with your pup or dog expect good behavior. Do not tolerate jumping, growling, snapping or nipping. This behavior must always be corrected so it is always seen as unacceptable to the pup or dog. Do not allow a pup or dog to steal food or garbage. Always correct this behavior and do not let it become a bad habit. Remember that a dog that is indifferent to his owner’s commands has learned not to respect his owner. This means the owner has lost control. Turn this around. Be consistent with your commands and always reward good behavior. Dogs that constantly demand attention are over-indulged. When this occurs ask yourself if you are “buying” the pup’s love with permissiveness, with over-petting and coddling. Each pup will naturally find its place in the family pack. Owners must always assume the “leader” position to provide the security the pup needs.

LEADERSHIP

Dogs require leadership, structure, and security. Pups already know and understand these things because their mothers corrected them with firm, swift, and instant corrections. She would shake them by the neck, clout them with her paw, or pin them to the ground until they would submit. She made sure they knew she was the “boss”. In a new home, a pup will look for the same structure and leadership. If none is provided, they will begin to assert themselves. This is usually seen in the form of growls, nips, and other kinds of dominant behavior. All members of the family must agree to behave consistently toward the pup. There can be no exceptions, “Oh, just this once” is the beginning of confusion for the pup. The pup does not understand inconsistency. For example, if your house rule is that the pup will not to be allowed on the furniture, it must be all the furniture all of the time. Do not allow the pup on the couch one day and scold him the next. This is very confusing. Once they learn they are allowed on furniture, it is very hard to stop. The owner’s body odor is the attraction, and is on all of the furniture, even your favorite chair or bed. To the dog, it is all the same. Your body odor represents you and that is the attraction. Therefore, you must have one rule for the furniture, with no exceptions.

SOCIALIZATION

Socialization is a necessary and important part of good development. Exposing a pup to new and different places teaches them to be comfortable around strangers and changing situations. By eight weeks of age, a new puppy should be accustomed to normal household sounds: the vacuum cleaner, dishwasher, TV, radio, toilet, etc. Ideally, this was begun by the breeder. Take the pup on short car rides to get him/her over motion sickness. New and different environments such as a walk in the park, school ground, construction site, busy sidewalk, and shopping mall all provide interesting smells, sounds, and opportunities to explore.

PRAISE AND DISCIPLINE

As leader, use a happy, enthusiastic tone when praising your pup for good behavior. Generous amounts of praise for good behavior will pay off. From the dog’s point of view, a reward means you like the behavior and want more of it. Never reward fearful behavior by “soothing” the pup with a soft voice or by stroking it. This only reinforces the bad behavior. Praise and discipline should not be confusing. Use a stern, loud tone when correcting bad behavior. Your tone becomes the signal and provides the feedback pups understand.

VOCABULARY

One syllable words work best. Pups and dogs respond easily to one syllable words. Remember, they do not understand the meaning of words or sentences. However, they do recognize sounds and associate them with specific behaviors.

We suggest the following words as your basic commands: “NO”, “COME”, “DOWN”, “SIT”, “STAY”, and “OK”. Tone is important. “NO” is for bad behavior or to stop something and it should be said in a voice tone that is loud and angry. “COME” should be a happy, upbeat sound.Dogs can learn a lot if the commands are simple and consistent.

Remember this rule: “Learning is not portable”. If a command is learned in the house, take the pup outside, to the park, and the shopping center and repeat the same command. It will not be long before the pup/dog learns what the command means, regardless of the location.

HOUSE TRAINING

Dogs are den animals. A crate provides a secure place to prevent the pup from undesirable behavior. Since no dog likes to soil his den, house training will be simplified by using a crate. It can be located in your bedroom or some quiet place.

As a rule, all pups will have to “go” upon waking, after eating, and after drinking. Watch for behavior that looks like busy circling and sniffing. It is a signal that forecasts elimination. Food remains in the intestinal tract for up to 10 hours. Therefore, a regular feeding schedule will equate to a regular washroom schedule. Dogs that are allowed to feed freely tend to munch all day. What goes in all day comes out all day. For example, a feeding at 6:00 a.m. will produce elimination by noon and a 6:00 p.m. feeding will produce elimination before midnight. Adjust your feeding schedule to the time you can exercise the dog.

Those who work part-time can simply crate train the pup while the owner is away. Those who stay at home all day can carefully observe the pup behavior as they go about their chores, monitoring to see when the pups indicates he needs to “go”. People who work full-time should not expect a young pup to be in his crate for 6-8 hours at a stretch. After elimination reward the pup with a brief play-time. Tossing a ball works well.

Here are some do’s and don’ts that are useful with a new pup. Remember, very young puppies need a lot of rest; crate training takes advantage of this need. As soon as the pup awakens, take him outside. Walk him on-leash until he goes, then praise him happily. Encourage him with an expression, “Do your business,” or “Go pee,”. Both are popular commands. Be consistent with your reward.

Do:

Expect a few noisy nights when the pup first comes home.
Adhere to a rigid walk-play-feed-walk schedule.
Feed on a regular schedule.
Allow quiet time in the crate.

Do Not:

Expect the pup to spend more than four hours in the crate.
Allow children to tease the pup at any time.
Take the pup out of his crate if he is barking or crying.
Place rugs, pillows, etc. in the crate. Use newspapers instead.

BITING

All pups use their teeth. They nipped at their littermates as a way to establish the pecking order. Their mother never permitted them to nip her and she punished them swiftly when they attempted it. Her consistent behavior taught them about corrections and bad behavior.Nipping precedes biting and it often begins as a way to set limits. A nip that is not corrected will escalate as the pup begins to think of himself as the leader of the pack. Corrections must be made instantly.Never pet or soothe a pup when he is aggressively threatening anyone. A full-blown case of dangerous aggression can result. Correct this behavior with a stern “NO” and make it sound like you mean it.Do not plead for obedience. Discipline does not have to be harsh physical punishment.Use “NO” for actions that are not appropriate. “NO” is an authoritative sound that should result in an immediate reaction. Do not use the word “NO” combined with your pup’s name.“OK” is a happy-sounding, positive word. It gives permission and your approval.If a normal correction does not work use a firm, upward open-handed tap under the chin, followed by a firm “NO”. Use a 4-6 inch “grab” lead if necessary so the pup cannot escape when you apply the correction. The “grab” lead is also useful when training other new commands.

TREATS

Food as a treat to train is recommended by many trainers. But the treat should be very small. A tiny piece of a treat, such as a small piece of hot dog or chicken is sufficient. The smaller the better. A pup will work hard for a small reward.Eye contact is an important part of training. A new pup should be trained to bring their eyes up to yours. Pups should be comfortable looking at you and others eye to eye. The tendency is for the pup to glance and look away. Your goal is to have them look you in the eye and be comfortable with it. Verbal praise and petting should be part of this learning activity.Get the pup’s attention then, take a small treat and slowly move it up to your nose. This will cause the pup to follow the treat and be looking at you. When the pup is looking you in the eye move the treat from your nose to the pup’s mouth while saying “GOOD”.

CHEWING / DIGGING

Pups that are not allowed to continue destructive chewing do not develop into problem chewers. Pups left to their own devices, especially while the owners are away, will vent their loneliness, boredom, and frustration on whatever object catches their fancy. A pup who is crated during his owners’ absence cannot indulge in destructive activities. Freedom to explore is important but it should be supervised in your home. Remember, your pup will have to hear the word “NO” many times before he learns that household objects are forbidden. Clap your hands loudly and stamp on the floor to attract his attention followed with a loud “NO”. When he releases the object, offer a substitute “chewy” and lots of verbal praise when he takes it.

BEGGING

Begging usually begins with an indulgent owner offering food from his plate or the kitchen counter. This easily leads to whining, barking, climbing on the table, etc. Never offer the pup food from your plate, table or kitchen counter. This is a bad habit and leads to begging problems.

GROWLING OVER FOOD

Pups should not be allowed to growl over food, especially if there are children in the household. Sit on the floor, hold the food dish, and call the pup to you. Verbally praise him for coming. As the pup eats, talk to him and pet him. Have each member of the family take turns at different meal times. If the pup should growl or indicate any defensiveness, he must be told “NO”, then grabbed by his middle, and pulled backward away from the dish. Roll the pup onto his back and scold him. When he subsides, release him, and allow him to resume eating. Repeat if he growls again. This works well with most young pups. For older pups, the owner should stand near the dish with the pup on a “grab” lead. Should the older pup growl, say “NO” firmly, and pull the pup/dog back away from the dish by the lead as you correct him. In a day or two, you may hold the dish on your lap while the dog is eating. An older dog that has developed this behavior should not be treated as above but should be referred to a professional trainer/behaviorist.

JUMPING ON PEOPLE

Start immediately to teach your pup to keep all four feet on the ground. Start this immediately when the new pup comes home. With the young pup, do not encourage him to stretch up to greet you, instead, crouch down to his level, assist him in sitting, and then greet him. Most pups enjoy this annoying habit of jumping on people to greet them. Whenever the pup jumps on you, simply grasp both front paws securely, holding them up long enough for it to become uncomfortable in the standing position. Then, put the pup down gently. When the pup experiences this response consistently, he will avoid jumping up to greet you.

GREETING

All pups should be taught to “sit” and to “stay”. When visitors arrive, your pup should be on-lead and told to “sit-stay” near the door. As each guest enters, tell them to ignore the pup. When they have been seated the pup should be brought on lead to meet them. The pup should sit in front of each guest so the guest can pet the pup. It is important that the “sit-stay” be mastered before trying this with strangers. Practice this exercise several times using family members before doing this with your guests. Your practice sessions should include distractions. A distraction could be a tennis ball that is dropped or rolled on the floor a few feet from where the pup is sitting. The pup should remain in the sit-stay position while it is petted.

Originally written by Dr. Carmelo L. Battaglia for www.breedingbetterdogs.com. Reviewed by the MPBA Team on January 27, 2025.

Preparing For Your Pup

Sat, 25 Jan 2025 11:11:31 GMT

Prepare Yourself: Here are a few tips provided by the American Kennel Club to help you understand the commitment that you face as your new family member enters your home.

Get Ready

Prepare Yourself
Get ready for your new friend before you bring him home, to make sure the transition will be as smooth as possible. Buy food, treats, a collar and leash, toys, grooming tools, and other necessities in advance so your dog or puppy will have everything he needs.
Make A Schedule
You and your family members should decide who will be responsible for food, water, walking, exercise, clean-up, and grooming. Post a schedule of tasks in a visible area of the house to remind everyone of their responsibilities.
Dog-Proof Your Home
Prepare your home before your new dog arrives. Move breakables or "chewables" to higher ground. Make electrical cords inaccessible to curious paws and noses. Block off any area of the house that you want off-limits to the dog. Put the lid down on your toilet and your shoes up in your closet. Block access to any house or garden plants that may be toxic to dogs.
Set A Containment Policy
It is essential that you have a secure method of keeping your dog on your property. Check your fence for spots vulnerable to chewing or digging. If your yard is not fenced, consider a large dog run or invisible fencing. If your property is not fenced in some way, stress to family members that the dog must be leashed at all times when taken outdoors.
Get A Collar
Your dog should wear a flat leather or nylon collar with a buckle at all times, except when in a crate. (The buckle can catch on the crate and cause injury.) The collar should be tight enough that it will not slide over the dog's ears, but loose enough that you can fit two fingers between the collar and the dog's neck. Check the fit of the collar often, especially if you have a fast-growing puppy.
Make A Bed
Every dog needs a quiet place to call his own. Create a comfortable area, whether a crate, a mat or a pile of blankets, for your dog to go to when he needs rest or privacy.
Buy Some Toys
Provide your dog with a variety of toys to prevent him from playing with your socks and shoes, your morning paper, or your child's favorite doll. Get some toys that you and your dog can play with together, such as balls and plush toys, and some things to keep him busy when he's alone, such as chewies or rope bones. Never leave your dog unattended with any toy that has small, detachable parts.
Find A Veterinarian
You should choose a veterinarian for your dog as soon as possible. Have your dog examined by the vet within a few days of his arrival. Give your vet copies of the dog's health records, and set up a vaccination and check-up schedule. The AKC Pet Healthcare Plan can help with the cost of providing quality healthcare throughout your dog's life.

Bring Your Dog Home

Welcome Your New Pet
At last! You've made all the preparations, and it's finally time to bring your new friend home. Give him the best welcome possible. With love, patience and mutual respect, he will feel like part of the family in no time.
Let Your Dog Adjust
Give the dog time to adjust to his new home. The dog is bound to feel insecure and frightened by a change in environment, and a pup may be homesick for his mother or littermates. Show him to his crate or bed, and where to find food and water. Then leave him alone to explore the new surroundings.
Name Your Dog
Your dog will need a good name. Your breeder may have suggestions or even requirements for his AKC-registered name, but his call or informal name is up to you. Older adopted dogs can adjust quickly to a new name.
Make Introductions
Introduce your dog to your household slowly. Many pairs of hands petting him at once will only frighten him. Later, introduce him to neighbors, regular visitors and other family members. Give your dog a sense of who your - and your dog's - friends are.
Introduce Other Pets
Other companion animals in your home should also be properly introduced to your new dog or puppy. Don't expect them to get along right away, and don't try to force them to play together. Give them time to adjust to one another.
Housetrain
Whichever method of house-training you have chosen - crate training, paper training or litter box - make sure that all members of the family enforce it consistently. Accidents happen, so have a procedure for clean-up.
Set House Rules
Teach your dog from the beginning what is and is not appropriate behavior. If something is "OK" today, your puppy will think it's OK forever. Make sure that every member of the family enforces the house rules. Consistency is the key to having a well-behaved pet.

Keep Your Dog Healthy

Go To The Veterinarian
Set up a schedule for regular check-ups with your veterinarian. Ask the vet questions about your dog's diet, behavior, activity level or other concerns. Contact the veterinarian at once if your dog seems ill or in pain. The AKC Pet Healthcare Plan can help with the cost of providing quality healthcare throughout your dog's life.
Feed A Good Diet
Work with your veterinarian or breeder to find the food that is best for your dog's age, size and activity level. Keep the diet consistent. Always provide plenty of fresh, clean water.
Exercise
Dogs need regular exercise to ensure continuing good health. Take your dog for walks, run around in the yard, throw a ball around - anything to get him up and moving. This will benefit his health and could prevent behavior problems.
Vaccinate
Dogs should follow a strict schedule of vaccinations to prevent diseases. Keep your dog current on his vaccinations, following the schedule recommended by your veterinarian. Keep a copy of your dog's vaccination records handy.
Prevent Disease
You can take steps to prevent other diseases not covered by the regular series of vaccinations. Depending on the area of the country you live in, your dog could be at risk for diseases such as heartworm and Lyme disease. Ask your veterinarian for advice on prevention. The AKC Pet Healthcare Plan can help with the cost of providing quality healthcare throughout your dog's life.
Repel Fleas And Ticks
Aside from discomfort, parasites such as fleas and ticks can cause serious diseases. Keep your dog, his bedding, and your home free from parasites by using the method recommended by your veterinarian.
Know Your Dog's Patterns
You should become familiar with your dog's patterns in terms of eating, drinking, sleeping and relieving himself. Any major variations in these patterns could indicate illness and should be reported to your veterinarian.
Provide Chew Toys
Dogs never outgrow the need to chew. Protect your possessions by providing a variety of chew toys to satisfy your dog's urges.
Bathe Your Dog
A clean dog is a healthy dog. Bathe your dog on a regular basis appropriate to his breed and environment. Overbathing can be harmful to a dog's skin. Use a good shampoo and be sure to rinse well. If bathing your dog is more than you can handle, take him to a groomer who will provide you with a professional look for your dog.
Groom Your Dog
All dogs should be groomed regularly for health and best appearance. Some short-coated breeds need just a quick brushing every week, while some longer-coated breeds need daily brushing to prevent matting and to reduce shedding. If your dog requires clipping or sculpting, you may want to consult a professional groomer.
Clip Those Nails
Keeping your dog's nails short will keep him comfortable, prevent injury to his feet, and may save the surface of your floors. If you can hear your dog's nails click on a hard surface, they need to be trimmed. Ask your veterinarian for advice on clipping your dog's nails yourself or if you are having him groomed the groomer is happy to do this for you.
Clean Those Teeth
To prevent tooth decay and gum disease, clean your dog's teeth regularly. Most dogs will accept a "toothbrush" if introduced to it slowly and gently. You can also give your dog products such as hard biscuits, rope bones and nylon chews to keep his teeth clean.
Prevent Obesity
Keep your dog healthy by maintaining him at an appropriate weight. Feed him a well-balanced diet and give him plenty of exercise. Don't give in to begging - "people food" is generally bad for dogs.
Know Your Breed's Health Risks
You should be aware of common health problems in your breed, how to prevent them, and how to recognize their onset. For example, some giant breeds are prone to bloat, while some short-faced breeds are prone to respiratory problems. Ask your breeder or veterinarian for information about any signs or symptoms you should watch for in your pet.
Protect From Poisons
Make sure that your home and yard are free from poisonous substances, such as antifreeze, which tastes good but can cause serious illness or even death. Keep your veterinarian's number handy in case of accidental ingestion.
Be Alert to Changing Needs
As your dog ages, his needs will change. He may require a different diet, need more sleep, and be less active. Do what you can to keep him comfortable. Your dog may not be as "fun" as he once was, but he is the same dog you loved as a puppy. You should do everything you can to pamper him in his final years.
End Suffering
If, due to illness or old age, your dog reaches a point where his quality of life is severely compromised, arrange to end his life humanely. Letting go is sometimes the kindest thing you can do. Don't prolong the suffering because you fear the pain of losing your dog.

Daily Observation

Wed, 18 Dec 2024 10:11:31 GMT

Responsible Breeding Starts with Daily Observation

There is a lot to being a responsible breeder, but the first step--and maybe the simplest--is to observe our animals daily. This is the first line of defense against any problems that may arise.

Take a look at USDA's Animal Care Tech Note for details on the best guidelines to follow for daily observation.